Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
